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The basic Spanish omelette, made with eggs and potatoes, seems to have been around since time immemorial. However, although the eggs have certainly been around since various types of poultry were domesticated, the potatoes are of a somewhat later vintage. They did not arrive in Spain until after the conquest of their native Peru, by the forces of Francisco Pizarro in 1532.
These versatile tubers must have then lain dormant for a while, as the first mention of them being combined with eggs to form what is today one of the most typical dishes in the Spanish culinary canon dates from the time of the Napoleonic war, when the soldiers of Spain would have been glad to have had such a sustaining and eminently portable dish to fuel their struggle. That was in 1817 and by 1833, during the time of the first Carlist war, their presence in the diet of soldiers seemed to be more or less taken for granted.
Unlike its French counterpart, which is frequently served runny, (the French word is baveuse) the Spanish omelette must be served bien cuajada, that is to say, well set. It is this solidity that not only differentiates it from its less sturdy cousin across the border, but also makes it so perfectly portable. An ideal dish then for a ploughman or a labourer from Andalucía.
The combination of eggs for protein and potatoes for carbohydrate, and hence energy, means that the Spanish omelette is not only tasty, but cheap, made from ingredients available to just about everybody. Not only that, but it can be eaten at any time.
Bodybuilders and gym fanatics appreciate its supply of protein prior to a workout. At lunchtime, few can resist the aroma of a freshly-made tortilla, thick and golden – the exterior nicely browned, but not quite burnt. And in the evening, what better way for harassed parents to feed their brood, combined with a quick salad and a glass of wine.
Most cultures have a dish that is endlessly adaptable and in Spain, the tortilla is as variable as it is ubiquitous. Once you have mastered the basic versions, it is a simple matter to add interesting supplements. Serrano ham is an obvious choice and salt cod used to be just as common. In Catalonia, white beans and local Butifarra sausages are added for a touch of regional authenticity. In Navarra, tomatoes are added and in the maze of streets under the shadow of the Alhambra in Granada's famous Sacro Monte barrio, canned peppers, peas, serrano ham and even lambs' testicles are added, in what is quite a variation from the basic egg and potato variety.
Tortilla novices should be wary though, of the moment of truth; in this case when the omelette needs turning through 180 degrees in order to finish off cooking the underside. The key to this operation is to have a plate with a diameter quite a bit bigger than that of the pan in which you are cooking it. It also helps if you lubricate the plate with a thin sheen of olive oil. This will make it easier to slide the turned tortilla back into the pan. It is also a good idea to have your first attempt unwitnessed by friends or partners.
Top 5 Tortilla Tips
- Spanish tradition demands that the potatoes be cut into very fine slices, but it is a bit easier and quicker to cut the spuds into 1cm cubes.
- After frying the potatoes, don't forget to drain them completely of oil. If you do omit this step the resultant tortilla will be unpleasantly oily.
- Don't overbeat the eggs. You are not trying to make scrambled eggs. A few seconds' light agitation with a fork should be enough.
- Add salt to the egg mixture before cooking. This will result in a much better flavour than you could achieve by simply sprinkling the finished dish with salt.
- When you think the first side is cooked to a golden brown finish, you are probably too early. Turn the heat down to the minimum and give it another five minutes.
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